How To Choose A Drum Kit
Are you ready to make some noise? Whether you’re a budding Neil Peart or a seasoned Buddy Rich, finding the right drum set can make or break your musical journey so I’m going to guide you in how to choose a drum kit for your needs. Did you know that the average drummer hits their drums and cymbals 15,000-20,000 times per gig? That’s a lot of impact! In this guide, we’ll dive into the world of drum kit playing and help you find the best drum set to withstand all those hits while delivering the sound of your dreams. Let’s roll (pun intended)!
What To Look For When Buying A Drum Kit
When I first started to play the drums at 9 years of age, I started with just a snare drum for the first 2 years. Then, when finally got my first drum kit I was both excited and overwhelmed. It was like looking at a puzzle I couldn’t wait to solve! So let’s break down the basics shall we?
First off, what makes up a “standard” drum kit setup? Well, you’ve got your drums and your cymbals. Simple, right? Let’s start with the drums. You’ve got your bass drum, also called a kick drum. It’s the big one you play with a foot pedal. Then there’s the snare drum, which sits between your legs and gives you that sharp, crisp sound.
Moving up, you’ve got your tom-toms (also known as rack toms). You usually have two mounted above the bass drum, and a floor tom off to one side (depending if you have a right-handed or left-handed setup). The toms are great for fills and adding some flavor to your beats. You’ll notice that most standard drum kits have two rack toms and a floor tom, or one rack tom and two floor toms instead – this is quite a popular choice for rock drumming. However, most jazz drummers tend to only use one rack tom instead of two.
Onto the cymbals! You’ve got your hi-hat, which are two cymbals stacked on top of each other which you can open and close with a foot pedal. Then there’s the ride cymbal, which you also use for keeping time, and crash cymbals for accents (you can add china cymbals, cymbals stacks and other types of effects cymbals later).
Each of these components plays a different role in the kit. The bass drum and snare are like the foundation of your house – they’re the backbone of most beats. The toms add color and are great for fills. The cymbals are like the spice in your cooking – they add flavor and excitement to your playing.
So when choosing your first drum kit, I’d focus on making sure it’s “got all its parts” so to speak. 1 bass drum, 2 or 3 toms, and a snare drum. A ride cymbal, hi-hat cymbals, and at least 1 crash cymbal (although 2 crash cymbals would be ideal).
If you’ve got all that covered, that’s all you need to get started as a beginner, and this is enough gear to learn with. There’s plenty of time to add more gear or upgrade to higher quality or different sounding components later on (by then you will have more of an idea of which elements of your setup you’d like to change as you gain experience too).
A good thing to know early on is that how you set up your drum kit can totally change how you play! Check out some photos of the setups of your favorite drummers and pay attention to how they set things up and try it out for yourself. I’d certainly recommend getting your seat height correct (called the throne, ’cause drummers are AWESOME!) from early on. You want the angle of your legs to be at least a 90-degree angle. Slighly more than that it fine. But having it under 90 degrees can lead to issues with your lower back. Speaking of your back – sit up straight!
The configuration of your kit affects your reach, your comfort, and ultimately, your sound. For instance, if you’re into jazz, you might want only one rack tom and your ride cymbal a bit closer. But if you’re a rock drummer, you might have more toms positioned closer together for faster fills.
Feel free to experiment with different drum and cymbal heights. I tend to think of setting things up on different “levels” as you can see in the picture below (of my current quite symmetrical setup). The floor toms are the ground floor, followed by the snare drum, etc, all the way up to the crash cymbals and finally the china cymbals up the very top. Angling your toms and cymbals slightly towards you can make them easier to play, and hitting the cymbals with “glancing blows” can increase their life span and prevent them from cracking. The toms will resonate more the flatter they are positioned. Another good tip is not to have cymbals more than about head height as you’ll get fatigued faster if they are too high.
Your drum set configuration isn’t set in stone. Don’t be afraid to move things around. What works for one drummer might not work for you. It took me years of tweaking to find my perfect setup, and even now, I still make adjustments and mix things up now and again just for fun. I’d focus on ergonomics more than anything – make it feel good to play!
Understanding your drum set is about more than just knowing what each piece is called. It’s about understanding how they all work together to create your unique sound. Once you get it, it’s like unlocking a whole new level in your drumming journey.
So, don’t get discouraged if it takes some time to figure out. Keep practicing, keep learning and experimenting, and most importantly, keep having fun! After all, that’s what drumming is all about. 😄
And if you need more inspiration, just add a cowbell! 🤘
Top Drum Set Brands to Consider
First up, let’s talk about the big names. You’ve got your Pearl, Tama, DW, Ludwig, and Yamaha. One of the most successful entry level kits of these are the Pearl Export Series. I started with a Power Beat kit, then I moved on to Premier, Mapex, a Roland Electric, Leedy, a Yamaha Electric, Tamburo (handmade in Italy) and now Sonor.
Each of these brands has their own special sauce, if you know what I mean. Take Sonor, for instance. They’re known for their German durability and versatility and patented tune safe lugs (which is a piece of nylon hidden inside the lug to hold the tension rod in place to prevent detuning). I really love this feature, and it works really well! For all other brands you could use lug locks.
For those that care, you might want to pay attention to the country of origin of each drum brand. Generally speaking: Sonor are from Germany, Tama are from Japan, DW from the USA, and Pearl are made in Taiwan for example. But you’ll also find that most manufacturers will have a few different lines of kits aimed at different target markets and at different corresponding price points. Most budget lines are made in China whereas the more expensive product lines are manufactured in other countries.
Of course, the brand of kit, shell construction material, and drum diameters all have an influence on the sound (not to mention perception). Ludwig drums have been around since 1909 and have been on some classic recordings (Ringo Starr made them famous during the Beatles era), and Gretsch drums are another popular choice for recording. More modern metal sounds are more akin to brands like Tama, Pearl, DW, and Mapex.
Yamaha is kinda the jack-of-all-trades brand in the drum world. They make solid kits for everyone from beginners to pros, along with heaps of other things like outboard motors and motorbikes (yep, it’s the same company). A Yamaha Stage Custom kit was a very solid choice – well built and lasted a long time!
But here’s the thing – all the history in the world don’t mean squat if drummers aren’t happy with the product. That’s where customer satisfaction comes in.
At the end of the day, choosing a drum brand is like choosing a favorite ice cream flavor. It’s personal, and what works for one drummer might not work for another. My advice? Try out as many brands as you can before making a decision. Hit up your local music store and bang on some drums. Trust me, you’ll know when you find “the one”.
Remember, no matter what brand you choose, it’s the drummer that makes the music, not the drums. I’ve heard amazing sounds come out of budget kits (with some decent heads and good tuning) and terrible noise from some top-of-the-line sets. It’s all about practice, skill, and passion. So keep on drumming and learning, my friends!
Talk to other drummers and ask to play their gear too, whenever you get the chance. There’s so much to learn and experience, and like most things in life: you simply don’t have time to make all the mistakes yourself. 😉
How Do You Choose A Drum Kit?
Best Drum Sets for Beginners
So, what should you look for in a beginner drum set? First off, durability is key. Trust me, those drums are gonna take a beating while you’re learning. You want something that can withstand your enthusiastic (but maybe not so precise) playing. Look for sturdy double-braced hardware and well-constructed shells.
Next up, consider the size. A standard 5-piece kit is usually perfect for beginners. That’s your bass drum, snare, two rack toms, and a floor tom (when drummers talk about how big a drum kit is, the number of “pieces” refers to the total number of individual drums). Anything more is just gonna overwhelm you at first.
You can pick up a small set of cheap cymbals when you get started, although they usually don’t sound very good. If you can, try to get a set that includes at least a set of hi-hats, a ride cymbal and a crash cymbal.
The next thing I’d add from there is a second crash cymbal if your budget allows. What the cymbals are made of has a large impact on the sound. Brass cymbals can sound hash, B8 and B12 alloy cymbals are more friendly on the hip pocket, whereas B20 alloy cymbals are considered to be the top of the line.
Let’s check out some beginner-friendly kits you can find on Amazon. Remember, these are just my opinions based on what I’ve seen and tried.
Sonor AQX Studio Drum Set
The Sonor AQX Studio Drum Set is a great starter option.
Pros: Comes with drumsticks and a stick bag and the hardware is double-braced and sturdy.
Cons: No cymbals included so you’ll have to pick those up separately.
Yamaha Stage Custom Birch Drum Set
The Yamaha Stage Custom Birch Kit is a bit pricier, but it’s a kit you can grow with.
Pros: Excellent sound quality, well-built, and looks professional. The cymbal stands have memory locks and the hardware is very sturdy. In fact, this is some of the best hardware in this price range, and it will last for ages!
Cons: Doesn’t come with cymbals, so you’ll need to buy those separately.
Pearl Roadshow Drum Set
The Pearl Roadshow Drum Set is a solid choice for beginners. Pros: It’s from a reputable brand, comes with everything you need to start playing, and the hardware is pretty sturdy. Cons: The cymbals and throne (seat) are kinda meh, and I wish the cymbal stand had memory locks.
When it comes to price, you’re looking at anywhere from $399 to $999 for a decent starter kit. I know that sounds like a big range, but trust me, it’s worth spending a bit more if you can. That $399 kit might seem tempting, but you’ll outgrow it faster than those jeans from high school.
Now, here’s where it gets fun – upgrading your kit as you improve! You don’t have to replace everything at once. Start with the cymbals – a good set of cymbals can make even a cheap kit sound decent. Then get a better kick pedal, and then maybe upgrade your snare drum. That’s the drum you’ll use the most, so it’s worth investing in a good one. (Honestly, I didn’t start experimenting with different snare drums until I had been playing for about 20 years!)
Next, think about replacing the drum heads. This is a game-changer, folks. A good set of heads can make your drums sound like a whole new kit (depending on the quality and if they are coated or clear).
As you get more serious, you might want to upgrade the whole kit. Some music shops might even let you trade your old one in when you’re ready to upgrade.
Also, don’t forget about used gear! There are some great deals out there on pre-loved kits. Just make sure to inspect everything carefully before buying.
Remember, the most important thing is to enjoy playing. Don’t get too caught up in having the “perfect” kit right away. Even the most basic set can sound amazing with practice and passion. So get out there and start showing the neighbors who’s boss! 🤪
Professional Drum Sets for Serious Drummers
Stepping up to a professional-grade drum set is like trading in your trusty old sedan for a sleek sports car. It’s a whole new world of sound and feel! I remember the first time I sat behind a high-end kit – it was like the drums were playing themselves. But let’s break it down for those of you looking to make that leap.
First off, what makes a drum set “professional-grade”? Well, it’s all about the details. We’re talking premium wood shells, often made from high-quality maple, birch or in my case beech. These babies resonate like nobody’s business! The hardware is top-notch too – heavy-duty stands, pedals smooth as butter, and lugs that’ll keep your drums in tune through the wildest gigs.
One thing that blew my mind when I first got my hands on a pro kit was the bearing edges. These are the edges of the drum shells where the heads sit. On cheaper kits, they can be rough or uneven. But on pro kits? Smooth as! This makes a huge difference in the drum’s tone and sustain.
Now, let’s talk about some professional level drum kits for different genres.
Tama Starclassic Walnut/Birch Drum Kit
For rock and metal check out the Tama Starclassic Walnut/Birch shell option.
Gretsch USA Custom
For jazz, a lot of pros swear by Gretsch USA Custom kits. These drums have a warm, vintage tone that’s perfect for smoky jazz clubs. High end kits with maple shells are always a good choice here.
Sonor SQ2
If you’ve got deep pockets, be sure to check out the Sonor SQ2. These drums are super versatile and can be customized to your heart’s content. I used to own a big SQ2 kit in semi-gloss Scandinavian Birch finish with chrome hardware. Sonor have an extreme focus on quality, and it so happens that a by-product of these quality drums is unmatched resonance! Seriously, I’ve never heard anything like it! This kit had an incredibly focused sound thanks to the super high quality shells and 45-degree bearing edges.
Speaking of customizations, that’s where things get really fun (and, let’s be honest, expensive). There are tons of boutique drum makers out there doing incredible things. Companies like Sonor, Pearl, Craviotto, and Canopus are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with drum construction.
Now, let’s keep it real here… investing in a pro-level kit ain’t cheap. You’re looking at anywhere from $5,000 to $30,000 or more for a full setup. And that’s before we even start talking about cymbals! But here’s the thing – a well-maintained pro kit can last you a lifetime. Just be sure to dust it often, and use drum shell cleaner regularly to keep it shiny and add a protective layer, and prevent the chrome from rusting. It will sound better as the years roll by, because drums often improve with age as the wood settles and the shells “open up” (or perhaps, you also just get used to the sound of your own gear and it feels more and more like home to you).
Be sure not to skimp on cases if you’re gigging regularly. It’s your choice if you want to invest in hard cases or soft cases. Hard cases offer the best protection, but soft cases are a bit easier to squeeze into tight spaces if you have a small car).
Another high-end drum kit consideration is resale value. Unlike cars, high-end drums often hold their value pretty well. For example, I bought my Sonor SQ2 drum kit for $16,000 and sold it for $12,000 five years later. Some vintage kits even appreciate over time. So while that $10,000 price tag might make you wince initially, think of it as an investment in your sound and potentially your future bank account.
Lastly, don’t forget about trying before buying. Most drum shops will let you test out their high-end kits, and boutique drum brands will of course be happy to engage in conversation and walk you through all the different options. Take advantage of this! Bring your own sticks and really put the drums through their paces. What sounds amazing in one room might not work for your specific style or needs, so record the session if you can, so you can A/B it later.
At the end of the day, a pro-level kit is a serious investment, both financially and in your craft. But if you’re committed to your drumming journey, there’s nothing quite like sitting down behind a set of drums that feels like it was made just for you. It’s like finding your soulmate – once you’ve experienced it, you’ll never want to go back!
Owning an instrument which inspires you to play gives you the motivation to keep going. You can’t put a price on that. 😃👍
Electronic Drum Sets: The Modern Alternative
Alright, let’s dive into the world of electronic drum sets! I’ve been drumming for over three decades now, and I’ve gotta say, these modern alternatives have really changed the game.
When I first started out, I was all about that acoustic life. The smell of wood, the shine of cymbals, the thunderous boom that made my parents question their life choices… but as I got older (and some neighbors got crankier), I started to see the appeal of electronic kits.
The advantages of electronic drums are no joke. First off, volume control is a godsend. I remember the days when I’d try to practice at night, muffling my drums with every blanket and pillow I owned. Now? I just plug in some headphones and wail away at 2AM without a care in the world. It’s like having a soundproof room wherever you go.
But it ain’t all roses and sunshine. The problem with being able to play at 2AM is that I really did end up playing at 2AM when I probably should be sleeping! Plus, there’s something about the feel of an acoustic kit that’s hard to replicate – actually hitting those large cylinders and moving the air is something you actually feel in your body. I’ve played and owned some high-end electronic sets that come close, but there’s still a tiny disconnect that bugs me sometimes. (And don’t even get me started on the visual impact – nothing beats the look of a shiny acoustic kit on stage). Throne shakers and a few other bits and pieces can bridge the gap between an acoustic kit and an electric kit, but there’s still a difference in feel. Thankfully though, you can have both!
If you’re thinking about investing in an electric kit (which by the way is an excellent practice tool), the two main brands you need to be aware of are Roland and Yamaha. The top of the line Roland ekits are most expensive, followed by Yamaha which are more affordable. If you’ve got the budget, I don’t think you’d be disappointed by either one. They’ve got a great balance of realistic feel and awesome sounds, and the modules offer the most in terms of expandability and connectivity. A popular choice as a more affordable option would be the Alesis Strike Pro SE.
But here’s where it gets really interesting – hybrid setups. I’ve decided to go down the road of having the best of both worlds, by recording acoustic cymbals and using acoustic triggers on my bass drums, snare drum and toms. This suits me best as it allows me to achieve a clean mix with less fuss than using all mics, plus I can change the overall sound of the kit using the electronic drum module (or by doing so with MIDI).
Choosing between acoustic and electronic can be tough, but in the end, it comes down to your specific needs. If you’re living in an apartment or need to practice silently, electronic is the way to go. But if you’re all about that raw, organic sound and have the space for it, nothing beats a good acoustic kit. And if you have both, you could combine both and experiment with that setup too.
One thing I’ve learned is that it’s not an all-or-nothing choice. You can start with one and gradually incorporate elements of the other. That’s the beauty of modern drumming – there’s so much room for experimentation and personal expression.
I actually think that it’s more difficult to play an acoustic and that the techniques involved need to be more thoughtful and you need to “mix yourself” in terms of the dynamics of each limb. Playing an electric kit can be simpler, and you can change the trigger settings and volume of various kit components in the software which can make it easier to achieve the sound you want. So although the mechanics are the same, they also require slightly different skill sets.
At the end of the day though, it’s not about the gear – it’s about the music you make with it. It comes down to your creativity and what inspires you to play. So whether you’re team acoustic, team electronic, or somewhere in between, just keep hitting those drums!
How To Choose A Drum Kit – Factors to Consider
When it comes to picking out a drum set there’s a number of factors you need to consider, other than price. Including shell material, the type of music you’ll mostly be playing, drum diameters and many other things, so let’s dive in.
First up, we’ve got shell material. Poplar wood is usually used for entry level drum kits. Maple is the “gold standard” and most popular choice and has a low fundamental tone with great warmth and resonance and is a great all-rounder choice. Birch has pretty equal low and high frequencies with reduced mids and sounds quite punchy. Beech shells are “naturally EQed” with equal low, mid and high frequencies.
Some drum companies like Pearl and Tama use additional plys of wood in some of their product lines to color the sound even more such as Walnut, African Mahogany and Bubinga. For example, a 16 inch floor tom might have 6 plys of Maple on the outside, plus 2 inner plys of African Mahogany. The addition of the African Mahogany plys would make the drum sound even lower, compared to if the whole thing had been made from only Maple (as the inner-most ply of a drum shell has the greatest effect on the overall sound, and African Mahogany has a lower fundamental tone than Maple does).
Now, let’s talk drum heads (also called drum skins). Good quality heads can make even a mediocre kit sound decent. And when you put good heads on a good kit? That’s when the magic happens. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different types. Coated, clear, single-ply, double-ply – they all have their place. Generally speaking, clear heads have more attack which is a great choice for rock and metal, whereas coated heads have a more rounded sound and would be a great choice for jazz (not to mention it’s more suitable for playing brushes on coated heads and the volume will be louder).
Hardware is another biggie, but your choice can be a trade-off. Heavy duty double-braced hardware with memory locks are what I tend to steer towards. But these are more expensive and heavy to move around. Whereas single-braced hardware can be a better option if you are moving your kit around all the time to get to band rehearsals and gigs.
Each drum brand has their own idiosyncracies which can be annoying, but not clear until you’ve used them for a while. For example, I don’t really like the slotted tension rods which Sonor used to use, as I much prefer the “industry standard” square headed ones.
Having said that, I don’t think that square heads should be used in all applications. Some of the Pearl drum kits use square headed screws (which you need a drum key to adjust) to change the angle of the tom toms, rather than using thumb screws like every other brand. This makes the hardware look “cleaner” I suppose, and if it’s your personal kit and you don’t need to change the tom angle very often then this makes sense. However, if this kit is shared between 10 different drummers at a battle of the bands, this will get annoying fast! Especially since each band might only have 10 minutes to complete the changeover, and the drummer will be more focused on putting on their own kick pedal and cymbals rather than having to find a drum key in a hurry, simply to be able to adjust the angle of the toms! And what if they didn’t bring a drum key at all, or don’t own one yet? I don’t think that’s a situation I’d want to be in.
Drum size is something that’s often overlooked, but it’s super important to use the right tool for the job. If you’re playing mostly jazz in small clubs or cramped rehearsal spaces, consider going for a compact kit. Something like a 20″ kick, 10″ and 14″ toms, and a 14″ snare can still give you a full sound without taking up too much stage real estate. On the flip side, if you’re lucky enough to have a dedicated practice space or you’re playing larger venues, you might want to go bigger. A 22″ or even 24″ kick can give you that extra oomph.
At the end of the day, choosing a drum set is a personal thing. What works for me might not work for you. But if you keep these factors in mind – shell material, head quality, hardware, and drum sizes – you’ll be well on your way to finding a kit that’ll make you happy for years to come.
Just remember, the most important thing is to actually play the drums before you buy them if you can. All the specs in the world can’t tell you how a kit will feel under your sticks, so head to a well stocked music shop and try before you buy if you can. Trust your ears and your hands, and you’ll find the right set for you.
Maintenance And Care For Your Drum Kit
Finally, let’s talk about keeping your drums in tip-top shape! A little TLC goes a long way in keeping your kit sounding sweet, and prevention is better than a cure when it comes to rust!
You could simply use a soft, lint-free cloth for the shells and hardware to get the dust and fingerprints off. Some companies make gentle shell polishing products which are also worth trying.
If you’re not going to be playing your drum kit for a while, I’d suggest throwing a sheet over the top of them to keep the dust off (and also deter any unwanted attention from people with dirty fingers).
Tuning your drums is a whole topic in itself. I like to use a drum key attachment in a handheld drill just to save some time, but be sure to stop before any tension is applied! Then, get all the tension rods finger tight. After that, I like to use a cross-pattern with two drum keys, to keep the tension very even. Doing the same number of turns on each tension rod should get you in the ball-park then you can make finer adjustments from there. Alternatively you could invest in a drum tuning device like a Tama Tension Watch which measures the tension at each lug so you can see what’s going on, and get them all to match.
When it comes to storing and transporting drums, using hard cases or padded cases is the way to go. When storing at home, keep your drums in a cool, dry place. Extreme temperatures and humidity can wreak havoc on wood. Tuning issues due to temperature changes you can deal with, but a cracked shell due to storage in direct sunlight is not cool!
Replacing drum heads is something that often gets overlooked. Fresh heads can breathe new life into even the most beat-up kit. As a general rule, I replace my batter heads (the ones you hit) every 3-6 months if I’m playing regularly. Resonant heads (the bottom ones) can last a bit longer, maybe a year or so. It all depends on how they sound, and your budget.
At the end of the day, taking care of your drums is all about consistency. A little bit of cleaning and maintenance after each session goes a long way. And trust me, when you sit down behind a well-maintained kit, you’ll feel the difference. Your drums will thank you, your bandmates will thank you, and most importantly, your audience will thank you. Now get out there and make some noise!
Well there you have it, fellow rhythm enthusiasts! We’ve marched through the basics, brands, and best picks for drum sets. Remember, the perfect drum set is the one that inspires you to sit down and play every day! Whether you’re just starting out or looking to upgrade your kit, there’s a kit out there with your name on it. So, get out there and try some drums, and start making some noise! Your journey to becoming the next drumming legend starts with the right set for your needs. Now, go forth and rock on! 🤘
